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the only thing that is going to improve accuracy is practice practice and more parctice. If you have the correct form and you are consistant with the form you will imporve in accuracy. You need to be consistant with your stance and release that is much more important than what equipment you have.

jmm83164
First is practice a lot.Get lots of arrows that are suitable to your bow dont worry about if they are all matched .I buy them cheap on Ebay and I refletch them myself a fletching jig is handy thng to have and will save you big bucks. A good strap type release will greatly improve your accuracy .It doesnt have to be a fancy one either .Mine is a 15 dollar model made by Allen. you can get a deent fiber optic 3 pin site at Wally World for about 15 bucks works fine and more than 3 pins confuses me. Broadheads you have to try several and see what your bow likes :took awhile but figured out my bow only likes 100 grain points. Mechanicals are very accurte but seem flimsy to me. Gonna stick with my fixed blade. If you go with a fixed blade make sure its a vented type it will plane less Hope this helps .

burnie_1_2000
hi there 4 things are of main importance,1 a comfortable hold on the bow ,natural with no squeeze,2 comfortable anchor point for your realise arm with elbow slightly higher than anchor point.3 and most important is to make the same shot all the time (meaning do everything the same every time)4, do not let the bow drop till your arrow hits the target. i use a 1 pin sniper sight, not as fast acquiring a target at different distances, a 3 pin is best as you can shoot between the pins once you are used to your bow, and how it shoots, at different distances. i use mechanical as they shoot more like Field points, with less wind deflection in flight.now all you have to do is practise practise practise. good shooting,.

Irv S
Keep practicing. Without seeing your form can't coach, but the most common mistake is not following through. Try to hold that bow on target till the arrow strikes. (It helps you see your mistakes). Equipment questions, - my personal predjudices for what they're worth: Mechanicals, safer to handle, (keep those edges razor sharp), the edges are protected from dulling, don't 'plane` on the blades. A 'three pin` sight gives you a good 'feel` for how the arrow will drop as it goes out. ( More = too much). A pendulum isn't too much use outside of a tree stand.

archerdude
First: make sure your equipment is suitable for what you want to use it for (if all you want to do is target archery, broadheads are not what you want - or need; if you intend to hunt only "varmints", you don't need a 70# bow to kill a rabbit or squirrel - and you don't need a broadhead for that, either, a blunt is enough if the shot is placed correctly). Second: you do need arrows that are matched as closely as you can get them, regardless what anyone might say. If you have arrows that are of varying lengths/weights/stiffness/etc, you will NEVER improve in accuracy -- no matter how much you practice. Those arrows will simply go wherever they want to go because of their flight characteristics, no matter how "accurate" you may think yourself to be (it's the physics, dummie)(No, I'm not calling you a dummie, "xenicintelligence". It's meant for those who refuse to acknowledge the effect of physics on arrow flight dynamics and think that it doesn't matter whether a set of arrows is matched...). And if the arrows are not made specifically for your bow AND your draw-length AND your intended use, they are not going to perform as well as they should -- and they could very well be dangerous to yourself and those around you (I have seen what can happen to someone and/or their bow when their arrows are too weak: The arrow shatters/folds on release, the results of which are not pretty and it is NOT just because the arrow is "old" - I have seen new arrows do it too many times to think that); a too-short arrow can (and very often does) result in a ruined bow: I have seen a few bows with a hole in the wood/fibreglass laminate handle section, because the arrow was too short for the draw-length of the archer using the bow and was driven through the bow (released immediately upon reaching anchor) -- and they were all under 45# draw-weight bows. Just imagine what that would do to your arm...or someone else's arm or body. Third: make sure your "form" (the actual "how", the method, of what you do) is consistent. Inconsistency in form leads to inaccuracy, every time. If your release is different each time, the arrow flies differently every time as well; if you hold the bow differently each time, etc, etc. By the way...the elbow of your "string" arm (the one doing the pulling) should optimally be **level** with the arrow, so that the hand/wrist/forearm combination is **in line with** the arrrow, even if you use a mechanical release aid; if the elbow is too high or too low, you risk an inconsistent release -- and "too high/too low" is often a matter of millimeters. You don't need a mechanical release aid if your release is smooth and relaxed; if you jerk or otherwise move the string hand during release, accuracy suffers. It doesn't matter very much where you choose to anchor, either -- as long as it is a solid anchor and not "drifting" from shot to shot (if you anchor on your face, pick a spot that does not move when you smile/grimace/frown/scowl/etc - a change in anchor-point equates a change in draw-length, and a change in draw-length means a change in accuracy); it depends on what you are comfortable with and what actually works for you, individually, as does every aspect of your form. Don't constantly move from one method to another, either; give a new method a chance to show whether it is "right" or "wrong" for you -- YOU have to learn and get used to the new method before it can work. Consistency is extremely important for accuracy. If you need broadheads, get the fixed-blade type; "open-on-impact" broadheads actually impede the arrow's ability to penetrate the target. Make sure the broadhead is ****sharp**** and the cutting edges are intact before you use it; a dull broadhead is as useless as an "open-on-impact" broadhead. And if the blade is sharp and intact, it doesn't matter if it is a "solid" blade or a "cut-out" blade (although the "cut-out" blade will tend to "grab" the flesh of the animal and impede penetration...); if the arrow is properly made for its intended use, balanced correctly and has adequate fletching, it will fly true so long as your accuracy is not off. If "planing" is of any concern, simply use straight-fletching (although even this will impart some spin to the arrow if you use natural feathers. it has to do with the structure of natural feathers). Since I don't use sights, there is nothing I can give as far as advice about them -- except that you can become overly-dependent on them. What will you do when the shot requires holding the bow at an "odd" angle and the pins are out of alignment? Most pin-sights are designed to be used with a vertically-held bow, where the bottom limb-tip is directly below the top limb-tip.......