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korek api
 
Today's Discussion

Archery accuracy problem?
I just paper-tuned my bow. Its a hoyt avenger. I pull back about 73 pounds with a 29" draw length. Since I have paper tuned it the arrows are not holding any kind of group. I consider myself a decent shot. Before,I could shoot a pretty consistent 2-4 inch group at 30 yards, and since I have "tuned it" it is not holding any group even worth measuring at 20 yards. Im missing in every direction, one arrow is high left, the next is low left, the next high right, blah blah blah... Im not saying I am a pro shooter, but I am ALOT better than that. I was thinking maybe I left a screw loose somewhere during the tuning process, but they are all tight. I checked for contact to see if my fletching was hitting the bow somewhere, but it was clean. Also, my bow is shooting arrows at 10 yards lower than at 20 yards, so I have to aim high at 10 yards with my 20 yard pin for a bulls-eye. I found that very odd, and maybe a symptom of the main problem I am dealing with? I will explain how I tuned it, even though it was explained to me by a man who knows his stuff about archery, so I doubt he told me wrong, but I'll explain anyways. I stood about 8 yards away from a piece of paper that was propped up to eye level, shot through the paper and into the target, and then I would make the necessary adjustments to the rest, nocking point, etc. until I had a bullet hole where the fletching entered anywhere from exactly through where the shaft entered or 1/2 inch above where the shaft entered. Is that correct? Then I would do the same at different ranges to check that it wasnt an anomaly of some sort at that range. Someone please help. I tuned my bow hoping to tighten my groups, not throw them all over the place. What could be going wrong here that I am missing? (I am shooting blazer vanes and easton axis 400 arrows cut at 29 1/2 inches with 100 grain field tips if that matters) Thanks for your time I have a string loop and a release aid. Im not sure what my aiming point distance is? My posture is feet a little further than shoulder width apart if thats what you mean? Ive always been taught to pull my bow back by pulling your shoulder blades together rather than pulling with your arm. Is that a problem? And i use a kisser button against my lips, but you asking that brought me to realize something I didnt notice before. Now in order to have my pins centered in my peep sight, my kisser button is at the top of my lips? Somehow the peep moved (I measured and the center of the peep is 5" above the nocking point). Im guessing that could be a problem for up and down accuracy if the peep is moving but idk how it could cause right and left problems.

Reply
John S, BaC
4" group at 30 yards is excellent. If you could "undo" the paper tuning- you should be fine. I quit using a bow 25 years ago.....

stew575
What is your basic set up? Knock set on string? zero or 1/8" above zero? Fingers or release aid? Aiming point at what distance? Posture and how do you pull your bow back? Peep sight? If yes, distance from knocking point? anchor point on your face? You might check out a book by Al Henderson (US olympic shooting coach for many years). Once you learn how to shoot your bow, try setting up your shot, close your eyes settle down, relax and then release the arrow. Do this four or five times and see what your grouping looks like and see how the arrows are hitting the paper. Sometimes your eyes cause your body to make mistakes. If you try shooting (2 to 3 feet from your target) without your sight, you might be surprise on how accurate you can actually shoot a group. The Al Henderson method can get your group down to less than one inch at 20 yards. (I have shoot groups of 1/2 in within 10 yards). Once you train your body on the correct posture then your sight just brings the target into sight. Paper tuning is just one way to check if your arrows are flying correctly. Your fletching, length of fletching, angle of rotation, clockwise or counter-clockwise, distance from knock, and type of rest are all factors on how well your arrow flies. Release aid or fingers shooting will also affect your shot. Bow tuning is another factor. See if any of these suggestions will help.

dumdum
Well Gregg, I want to help. But now you bow is out of adjustment. Did you move your center shot in or out? If you moved it place an arrow on your rest and nock it. Take a ruler and measure from your riser to the mid-point of your arrow. It should be close to 13/16. This should be close enough to the correct position until you decide to fine tune it again. Now look at your arrow as it sits on your rest and nocked in shooting position. Hold the bow up as level as you can and look and see if the arrow slants a little up at the nock or a little down. What it needs is to be perfectly level when it is sitting on the rest and nocked on the bow. If you look at the cable guard it will give you an indication of being unlevel one way or the other. Or it may look level. If it looks level leave it alone. But if you have to move it you need to adjust the rest up or down. That would be easier then moving the nocking point. When the center shot has been set and the arrow is level when nocked, you can go outside and take one pin and set it. Start at 10 yards because you are going to have a different point of impact after the adjustments have been made. And the peep may need to be moved to line back up with your eye and shooting form. Set one pin to start with.When you hit the bullseye at 10 yards back up to 20 and use the same pin and shoot again. The arrow should hit low at 20 yards. Now take the pin and move it downward just a bit. Shoot again. If you hit a little high move the pin a little high, if you hit a little low move the pin a little low. When the pin is set for that distance shoot for a group. Your groups should have tightened up a good bit. But if you adjusted the limb bolts for the paper tuning you are going to have to adjust them before doing anything I have told you so far. In fact you should do this FIRST before adjusting anything. Take a ruler and measure from your riser where the limbs meet the riser at to the point where the string is closest to the riser. Do this on both limbs. The distance from one limb and the string should be the same on both limbs. By being even at both limbs your cam timing is set correctly. To get the distance to even out, just add a little adjustment or take off a little adjustment to the limb tightening bolts. After you do this step, address the other steps I gave you. You bow at the end of this should group and shoot well. The next time you tune your bow, forget the paper tuning method and look up the easton chart on bare shaft tuning. Good luck!

Stewell Sample
For starters try pulling less weight. 70+lbs is just plain old too much. Then try it.




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