Bluemason
Personally I don't believe anyone can guaranty a flawless cut 100% of the time, but saying that I have cut near enough to flawless cuts with a similar saw blade using a cutting jig as in this site, that is if you don't have a table saw of coarse. WILLIAM I don't know you from a bar of soap, but I can tell from your answer that I have forgotten more than you'll never know about capentry. The other guy has more of an idea than you'll ever have "The right blade is only one part of getting a good cut" And for your information I have used those types of jigs with a circular saw to cut cheap laminated MDF without a chip and near enough to flawless ( I don't recommend using this method for cutting laminated MDF unless you've made a good jig and have a newish saw) Plus how the hell would ripping a 18mm floor board over heat that blade, unless it was a kilometer long! >>a razor sharp edge on a piece of pre-finished floor will look horrible << How wrong are you here? A sharp edge is exactly what you want when doing flooring, but the backing off of the board is a valid point!

William
I would have to say no. That is a blade for a miter box or a radial arm saw and it is most definitely a cross-cut blade. If you only had a short cut to make you would probably be fine, but a longer cut will begin to overheat the blade and it will actually start to distort, which is pretty weird when it happens, but the end product is a burned cut and a dull $130.00 blade. Get a high quality rip blade. (It will have fewer teeth - maybe 24 - and they will be bigger, or a master planer blade, at no more than 1/3 the cost. You may also want to cut a slight bevel, a degree or less, of undercut, and don't be afraid to dress the cut with some sandpaper, a razor sharp edge on a piece of pre-finished floor will look horrible Since you are cutting off the tongue or groove, you would be well served using a biscuit jointer or try routing a groove for reversing spline to join the two pieces together. There is a reason floors are tongue and groove. Leaving it off and relying on glue or face nails to keep the two boards in line is a mistake that's already been made by enough people. I just looked at that other thing... Instructables. Simply ridiculous. But he is right about the table saw. This cut needs a table saw. Blue maso... I seriously doubt it. The ridiculous part is having your saw mounted to another block of wood when the shoe would be sufficient. Your jig would work if you need to cut sheet goods, but to cut a 2-1/4" piece of exotic hardwood flooring? What exactly is that jig going to do for the operator? MDF is as easy to cut as a wood product can get. A piece of flooring won't be easy and is probably not straight enough to drop onto a jig either. As far as the razor edge, you sound like an amateur. All edges should be eased. Always. You may have forgotten a lot I'm sure but the sum total of what you don't know is probably even more staggering. As far as the other guys answer, of course he's correct. But people who ask questions "... how to..." aren't looking for us to tell them they aren't capable or qualified, they want advice. If we are to take the opinion that the asker is not capable then the purchase of a $130.00 blade is truly ridiculous no matter whose answer they choose. I apologize if I hurt your little feelings about your jig. No offense was intended. It simply won't work for a piece of hardwood flooring. Hi Kristin. I'm not assuming my advice is the advice you will take but I checked in again and found your additional information... Ripping lumber is more of a strain on an all purpose blade than cross-cutting. A rip blade will cross-cut better than a cross-cut blade will rip. Though I see that the blade you are asking about is recommended for ripping as well. It seems awfully expensive and in my opinion, overkill for the cut you wish to make. As you have mentioned, you are going to rout a tongue on the edge anyway, but the nature of the job is that this edge will be entirely hidden - a glass smooth finish is not necessary. If this were a piece of furniture and the edge were going to show, that finish would be an advantage - for a floor board, simply overkill. The micro bevel is all I was referring to with easing the edge. Razor sharp edges show that a step hes been ignored. Look around your home... how many edges on trim, doors, furniture are razor sharp? On an unfinished floor board razor sharp is O.K. because the floor is going to be sanded eventually, but a pre-finished floor will have edges that you could run along your lip and not get a cut or sliver. My advice, use a quality rip blade or a masterplaner blade, use the straightest boards you can find or they will not stay tight to the fence of your table saw, negating the whole attempt at a near perfect cut and don't bother taping the cut - that really only works with crosscuts and veneers. I am sorry I don't understand what you are saying about the routing of the corner, but if you are routing one edge along the grain and one across - go across first, do it in two or three passes as far as the depth is concerned -doing all boards you are cutting at each depth, and be wary of tear out at the end of your cross-cut. As always if you are new to something like this, try on a scrap of wood first. Good luck.

hillbilly
The right blade is only one part of getting a good cut. The right saw and the operators skill are at least as important. No offense intended but if you are asking this sort of question on this sort of forum you probably would be better off having an experienced carpenter do it for you.